I rode in the gondola. Of course I did. It’s one of those touristy things I just had to do.
I was in Italy, after all. In Venice, built on 126 islands, separated by expanses of water and canals, linked by 472 bridges. Away from the Grand Canal, the main thoroughfare of the largest island, one can get lost in those narrow canals, with their pathways and bridges. Public transit is water buses, known as vaporettos.
My recent trip to Bella Italia started farther south, in Naples. I wanted to see Pompeii and Herculaneum, both cities destroyed by the 79 AD eruption of Vesuvius. On the first day in Napoli, I went to local museums. I also met some fellow travelers in the hotel courtyard who invited me to join them for dinner that evening. That’s one of the delights of travel.
The next day was my guided tour. According to my Fitbit, I logged six miles walking around the two ancient cities. Which are now surrounded by modern cities. In the distance, Vesuvius looms, looking benign—for the time being.
Herculaneum first, a rather compact footprint. It was buried under 20 feet of ash when the volcano erupted. The vast acreage of Pompeii was subjected to 18 hours of falling pumice, then a pyroclastic flow of dense, fast-moving ash that buried everything in its patch, suffocating those inhabitants who had been unable to escape. Most of the city has been excavated, but they are still digging. While I was there, our tour looked at one site that was recently uncovered. In one of the rooms, the eye is drawn to a donkey’s skeleton.
From Naples, I took a high-speed train to Rome. It took all of one hour and 10 minutes. I wish we had such efficient and comfortable transport here in the United States. Ah, that’s a subject for another blog.
In the Eternal City of Rome, I joined a Road Scholar tour, logging more miles on my Fitbit as we marveled at the Forum and the Colosseum, hiked from the Piazza di Popoli to the Spanish Steps, Trevi Fountain and the Pantheon. On the way, we passed the oldest existing aqueduct in Rome, built in 19 BC by the Emperor Augustus. It’s still in use today.
On the following day we went to the Borghese Gallery. I love the sculpture of Paulina Bonaparte Borghese, by Antonio Canova. It was considered quite scandalous in its day. And of course, all the beautiful sculptures by Gian Lorenzo Bernini.
Then a side trip to the Vatican where I saw Michelangelo’s jaw-dropping works of art—the ceiling of the Sistine Chapel and inside St. Peter’s Basilica, where I stood staring at the Pieta, now behind a glass wall since someone whacked it with a hammer back in 1972, causing serious damage.
Another day, another high-speed train, to Florence. The stunning Michelangelo painting of the Holy Family in the Uffizi Gallery. Berlusconi’s Duomo. The adjoining museum contains a remarkable Donatello sculpture of Mary Magdalene. And then the Accademia Museum, where Michelangelo’s beautiful David stands, ready to confront Goliath.
One of my fellow travelers and I went to the Pitti Palace, another museum full of paintings and sculpture. We stood on line at the entrance with three Greek Orthodox nuns from Macedonia and had a pleasant conversation, also one of the delights of travel.
Venice next, with the riches of St. Mark’s Basilica and the Doge’s Palace. We also saw something of workaday Venice, when our vaporetto went through the port, seeing boats loaded with packages and luggage. Boats pick up the hotel’s laundry every day. And at one vaporetto stop, a woman got on wearing a Post Italiane uniform, pushing a cart full of mail to be delivered.
When my tour was over and it was time to head for the airport, I traveled by water taxi, speeding over the lagoon to the docks outside the airport.
The food! Wonderful pastas and salads, delicious pizza, and I must confess that I sampled gelato everywhere. My favorite is stracciatella, vanilla ice cream drizzled with strands of chocolate. Good thing I was doing all that walking.
I just returned from my trip a few days ago. It was late evening, so I unearthed my toothbrush from my bag, took a hot shower, and went to bed. After my two-week absence, my three cats were ecstatic to see me. Unpacking could wait until the next day, after the necessary grocery run and laundry. The jet lag is kicking my butt, of course.
I do have my plot, however. Yes, there will be a novel set in Italy. The idea is taking shape in my mind.
In the meantime, I have some fiction suggestions. Pompeii, by Robert Harris, historical fiction that takes place before and during the eruption. An official from Rome arrives in Pompeii to check out problems with the local aqueduct and suspects that Vesuvius is the cause. North from Rome, by Helen MacInnes. Set in the 1950s, a playwright travels to Rome when his fiancée, a secretary at the U.S. Embassy, ends their engagement and accepts a proposal from an Italian businessman. Soon he and the other characters are caught up in deadly Cold War intrigue.
For Florence and the Tuscan countryside, I recommend Turn to Stone, by James Ziskin. It’s part of his series set in the early 1960s featuring reporter Ellie Stone, in Florence because her late father is being honored at a symposium. The event organizer winds up dead in the Arno River. Was it an accident, suicide, or murder? Ellie’s search for answers leads back to the traumatic years before and during World War II. As for Venice, Donna Leon’s Commissario Brunetti novels have been recommended but I haven’t read one, yet. I will soon remedy that.
Ciao! Here’s to pasta and gelato!
















You must be logged in to post a comment.